As promised, here’s a tutorial for my Flare skirt made out of the “Marty Goes to Mars” fabric from Camelot Cottons. It’s a fairly simple skirt, with basically one pattern piece that’s easily adjustable to be made in your own size.

The basic piece looks like this. (This jpg is 1/3 of the size of my actual pattern).
(Step 0: You’re using 100% cotton–don’t forget to wash, dry, and iron it before you begin. Yes, I know it’s a pain in the ass, but it’s not as big a pain as when you’ve spent a couple of hours on a beautiful skirt that shrinks on you.)
Step 1: Measure your waist, adding 2″ to the total to allow for fitting the skirt. Add 7.5″ (twelve seam allowances at 5/8″ a piece), then divide that number by 6. That number is the top width of the pattern piece (for me it’s 6.5″).
Step 2: Repeat step 1 with your hips. That number is the width of the pattern piece about 7-8″ down from the waistline (for me it’s 7.5″).
Step 3: Decide on a length. My skirt measures 25″, and falls just below my knees.
Step 4: Decide how much flare you want to add. Here you can get crazy–I like just a bit of flare (I added 5.5″ to my waistline number for a total of 11″ per piece).
Step 5: Use these measurements to sketch out your pattern piece.
- I drew a line of 6.5″ for the waist
- I measured down 8″ to the hipline and drew a parallel line measuring 7.5″
- I measured down from the waist to the hemline (25″ total)
- I measured in about 6″ from the the left edge and drew a line of 11″ parallel to the first two lines
- I sketched in the side seams, curving them to make a pleasing shape

NOTE: This method produced a pattern piece where the right, concave curve, is longer than the left, convex curve. That means when I joined the pieces up, the hemline was jagged (there’s a photo coming up). I dug it, but if you want a smooth hemline, then measure your curves and adjust the tilt of the hemline to make the two sides exact.
Step 6: Cut out your six pattern pieces. Be sure to cut them all facing the same direction. Don’t do like I did a few years back and just fold your fabric in half to cut three. It will make you cry. Or make you come up with a different sort of skirt, like I eventually did.

Step 7: Finish the lower edge. Or don’t. I like the raw look, so I opted just to serge my lower hem with white thread.
Step 8: Hunt all over your sewing room for the fourth cone of white serger thread. Vow to be more organized in the future. Make tea. Look some more. Give up and set up your serger with a normal spool of thread. Immediately find the cone on the windowsill, right where it should be. Swear. Continue with step 9.
Step 9: Attach all 6 panels, leaving back seam open. Iron all seams toward the curve of the seam.

Step 10: Stitch the back seam, leaving 6″ at the top open.
Step 11: Try the skirt on, safety-pinning the back seam fully closed. At this point I needed to add a few darts to make it fit correctly.
- While wearing the dress, I first pinned the darts where it seemed like they should go, one in each of the two back side panels.
- I took the skirt off and measured the darts to make them even
- I turned the darts to the inside of the skirt, measured them, marked them, and stitched them.
- Press the back seam, and press both darts toward the center back.

Step 12: Finish the top hem. Be fancy and do a facing if you like, or just make a simple folded hem if you’re impatient like me.
Step 13: Attach your zipper, snaps, buttons, or however else you intend to close your skirt.
Step 14: Congratulations, you’re now the proud owner of a skirt made out of martians. Bet your friends can’t say that. Enjoy!

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